The renowned champagne-producing areas of Reims, Trépail, Châlons-sur-Champagne and Bar-sur-Aube are dotted along this section of the Via Francigena. The hillsides of vines are bright green with spring’s new growth and we walk with a lightness in our step.
Fog shrouding the earth. Deer in the forest. Pale blue and burnt orange butterflies. An ancient wooden windmill on the horizon.
We stop at Hermonville and celebrate the Australian election outcome with a midday coupe de champagne. In Reims, we tour the chalk cellars of the house of Pommery. Its 30-metre-deep quarries are also an exhibition space for some brilliant contemporary art installations. At the end of our exploration, we toast Madame Louise Pommery, innovator, entrepreneur and philanthropist with a glass of her creation, brut Champagne.
Leaving Reims, we follow a towpath alongside the canal, sun glinting off the water, cranes ascending. Then climbing up through champagne vines where workers are plucking leaves and pruning so that the budding grapes can prosper. Traditionally, champagne grapes are picked 100 days after the first flowers appear. Now, because of the changing climate, grapes are often picked a couple of weeks earlier. It’s of deep concern to the champagne houses that the most expensive grapes in the world are under threat.
Through beech forests on narrow winding tracks that are tunnels of green light to Trépail where we stay in a modest gîte under the care of Madame Jacqueminot. She knows we don’t speak French but chatters away to us anyway, forcing us to listen attentively. The conversation flows more freely when she opens a bottle of her son’s premier cru champagne.
We walk across plaited green fields of wheat and follow back country ways through the Aube Valley. Cuckoos call, welcoming the coming summer. Then on through hillsides of vines and well-kept villages lying in the folds of the hills.
We find ourselves in Bar-sur-Aube on ‘Champagne Party’ weekend. We join in the festivities at the house of Cottanceau-Prignitz. It costs us a mere €10 euros for the degustation; three glasses of fine champagne enjoyed in a lush flowering garden on a perfect spring afternoon.
‘In victory, you deserve champagne. In defeat, you need it.’ (Napoleon).
The next stage of our journey: Via Francigena: Crossing the Grand Saint Bernard Pass
Go to the start of the journey: Via Francigena: the beginning
So good you got to celebrate the election result with such an appropriate drink. How good was it?! And cheers to Madam Pommeray and her brut champagne. Hope you got to have something as special for your birthday Michael! What wonderful country. Lovely story.
You’ve captured the experience to a “T”. Bravo!
Wow! I wish I was there, it sounds and looks so wonderful, you are both truely blessed. We miss you and love the holiday edit, keep up the good work and I hope your feet are happy on the downward trail, Cheers Maree
Thanks for the positive feedback! It’s all been excellent so far and even the feet don’t complain too much.
Bon courage for the climb! Too bad Sablet isn’t on your way😃
Thanks for wishing us luck, we may need it yet. Sablet would be a bit of a diversion from the trail but maybe afterwards?
sounds delightful.
cheers
It’s a lovely part of the world. Now we have some hills to climb!
Looks wonderful!!! The election results definitely required lots of celebratory champagne you did well …. Love your adventures
It was good timing to arrive in Champagne when we did!
Am so pleased you have moved onto happier lands, and yes a wonderful election outcome – change is in the air! I really enjoyed the 3 glasses of champagne photo of Anna…
Jon xx
Jon, Yes there is definitely a feeling of change in the air (and more so as we approach Switzerland and prepare to climb St Bernards Pass). Thanks for the positive feedback.