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A statue of Kobo Daishi looks out across dramatic misty mountains on the Shikoku Pilgrimage

Shikoku Pilgrimage Stage 1, Japan

Our Wanderlust 12 Comments

Tokushima Prefecture: Awakening the Spirit

Prologue

Our Shikoku Pilgrimage begins less than auspiciously. We asked the author of our guidebook if he knew of any reliable GPS tracks. His response is stern. A pilgrimage is not a hike but a path of ascetic training. There is such a thing as too much of a good thing; digital devices are unsuitable for the Shikoku pilgrimage. Getting lost is part of the journey. 

Chastened, we temper our planning for the pilgrimage but remain committed to following the footsteps of Kōbō Daishi to the 88 sacred Buddhist temples scattered around the island of Shikoku.

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Warm morning light highlights Cathedral Rock against the blue-tinged Serra Range

Five things you need to know about the Grampians Peaks Trail

Our Wanderlust 3 Comments

1. Give me an overview of the trail?

The Grampians Peaks Trail is a 164-kilometre walk traversing the Grampians National Park (Gariwerd). It provides panoramic views north/south along the ranges and east/west across the plains. Walkers will experience a stunning diversity of landscapes, including rocky ridges, alpine communities, dry and wet forests, heathlands and rivers. There are always some wildflowers blooming and Spring puts on a dazzling, ever-changing display.

The first rays of sun light up the summit of Mt Difficult / Gar on the Grampians Peaks Trail
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Late afternoon light highlights the rugged Serra Range on the Grampians Peaks Trail

Grampians Peaks Trail

Our Wanderlust 6 Comments

Grampians Peaks Trail, Gariwerd, Australia

Prelude

The Grampians Peaks Trail is an epic walk, full of beauty, grandeur and challenge. Along its 165 kilometres, it climbs over rugged peaks and crosses tough, rocky terrain as it traverses Gariwerd from Mt Zero in the north to Dunkeld in the south. Are we being foolhardy, setting out on a 13-day journey into the heart of this ancient, craggy country?

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Mock horror at the sight of a bear-shaped cutout on the Premužić Trail, Croatia

Premužić Trail, Croatia

Our Wanderlust 7 Comments

Zagreb is scaffolded, still in a state of repair after the 2020 earthquake that struck hours after the city went into lockdown. There are rules for when there is an earthquake, but when there is an earthquake at the same time as there is a global pandemic, then it’s a much more complex situation.

We have time enough to wander the streets and visit the enchanting Gallery of Naive Art and the poignant Museum of Broken Relationships but we are here to walk the Premužić Trail with our Zagreb-based friend Kaylee. Early one morning, we leave the city and drive up through mist and fog to the Zavižan mountain refuge, the start of the walk.

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Anna walking a winding dirt road towards Sutera nestled at the foot of Mount San Paolino

Magna Via Francigena, Sicily

Our Wanderlust 44 Comments

A last wander along the shoreline before we turn inland to walk across the mountains and plains of Sicily on the Magna Via Francigena. Fishermen mending their nets. A large-scale mural; a memorial to the magistrates Falcone and Borsellino, both assassinated by the Mafia. It is bold in its presence and tender in its rendering.

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Michel walks past a wall covered with graffiti including the text BUON CAMMINO

Finis Terrae: to the end of the earth on the Via Francigena Sud

Our Wanderlust 15 Comments

Waves breaking on the rocky shore. Pebbles sighing. Ferries plying the waters of the Adriatic. Fishing boats out at sea. We’re walking the Via Francigena Sud, a 950-kilometre route following the ancient Appian Way southwards from Rome. After walking through Lazio and across the mountains of Campania, we arrive in the port city of Bari. From here, we’ll hug the coastline until we reach Santa Maria di Leuca on the southernmost tip of the Salento peninsula, where the Adriatic and the Ionian Sea meet.

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Four French pilgrims pose with Anna and Michael for a selfie on the Via Francigena Sud

Apennines to the Adriatic, Via Francigena Sud

Our Wanderlust 8 Comments

We wake to the deep silence of the contemplative Monastery of Santa Catarina. There’s heavy rain forecast and it comes early. The beautiful Trebulani Mountains are lost to us. We’re walking the Via Francigena Sud, a 950 km route following the Appian Way southwards from Rome. After 10 days in Lazio, we turn inland towards the mountainous Campania.

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A lone walker strides out along a tree-lined rural road

Ten Days in Lazio, Via Francigena Sud

Our Wanderlust 22 Comments

One fine spring morning, we stepped out to walk the Via Francigena Sud. It’s a 950-kilometre route following the ancient Appian Way from Rome to Santa Maria di Leuca. Emperors, poets and popes have gone before us, as have pilgrims and crusaders bound for the Holy Land.

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On the Via Francigena, pilgrim walks along a ridgetop track towards a lone tree on the horizon

Six things you need to know about the Via Francigena

Our Wanderlust 22 Comments

1. Why would anyone want to walk 2,000 km?

It’s a very good question and one that we asked ourselves when we met Helaine on the Via de la Plata in 2008. She had started and intended to finish the Via Francigena. To be honest, we thought it a crazy notion.

Then, towards the end of 2021, after two years of COVID lockdowns and restrictions, we started wondering how we should respond to the constraints; sometimes we hadn’t been able to walk further than 5 km from our home (Melbourne, Australia). As we talked, it became clear that to put COVID-19 behind us we needed to walk, and the further the better. Helaine and the Via Francigena re-entered our consciousness. To walk 2,000 km over three months through five countries felt like the appropriate way to embrace a newly re-opened world.

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Looking back on the Via degli Dei, a Medici villa sits high on a ridge, highlighted by the sun

Via degli Dei (Path of Gods), Italy

Our Wanderlust 17 Comments

Late one summer, we set out to walk the Via degli Dei, an ancient pathway travelled since the time of the Etruscans. The 130-kilometre-long path crosses the beautiful Apennines, linking Bologna with Florence. It threads through forests, across mountain ridges and in and out of old Italian villages.

Pagan divinities give names to the mountains that the route crosses; Adonis, Jupiter, Venus and Lua, the goddess of atonement. They also give the route its name; the Path of Gods. 

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