Midsummer 2016
An owl, then rain. Soft green grass swaying in the breeze and an abundance of flowers; wild roses, buttercups, foxgloves and daisies. Young boys running through the greenness, trailing plastic union jack kites.
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Category: Walking
The South Downs Way, England
Midsummer, 2016
The South Downs Way follows ancient tracks along the escarpment and ridges of the South Downs, a line of chalk hills stretching across Hampshire and Sussex to the white cliffs of the Seven Sisters. Green, smooth-swelling, unending, the Downs provided inspiration for the Bloomsbury group and continue to exhilarate artists, writers, travellers and walkers today.
The concourse of London Victoria station a frenzy of movement. Financiers striding anxiously to work as the Pound Sterling plummets in the wake of Britain’s vote to leave the European Union. Dazed festival-goers returning from Glastonbury leaving a trail of mud and ennui in their wake. And those like us, keen to be away from the city, jostling against the incoming human tide to board the train. On the southbound journey, we sit opposite a sardonic, linen-suited Guardian reader, eruditely discussing the Brexit referendum with his travelling companion. Read More
Three Capes Track, Tasmania
The Three Capes Track promises to be ‘no ordinary walk’. A boat trip, three capes and four days exploring the wild coastal landscapes of the Tasman Peninsula. Meandering through fragrant heathlands, woodlands and lush green rainforests, climbing peaks, edging our way along some of the highest sea cliffs in Australia and being drawn to the swirling cobalt blue sea below. Read More
Cape to Cape Track, Western Australia
The Cape to Cape Track follows the sublime coastline of Leeuwin-Naturaliste National Park for 140 kilometres. We intend to start the walk at Cape Leeuwin, Australia’s most southwesterly lighthouse, and head north, past a glittering string of beaches, occasionally meandering inland through secluded woodlands and magnificent karri forest to end our journey at Cape Naturaliste lighthouse.
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Camino Portugues
September 2014
On a warm hazy afternoon, we met our French friends, Jean and Marie-José, on the steps of the Lisbon Cathedral, procured our pilgrim credentials and set out to walk the Camino Portugues.
This is our third Camino. In 2005 we walked the 750 km Camino Françes from St Jean Pied du Port on the French side of the Pyrenees, across northern Spain to Santiago de Compostela. Three years later we walked the Via de la Plata, a 1,000 km journey from Seville in the south of Spain to Santiago de Compostela. It was on this walk that we met and fell in with Jean and Marie-José, our affection for each other and ‘the way’ triumphing over our limited grasp of French. We last saw them in 2010 when we spent a few idyllic days in their village of Saint-Thomè in the wild and beautiful Ardèche. Now we are together again, to walk the 650 km Camino Portugues from Lisbon, through Portugal and into northern Spain, hugging the coastline where we can and avoiding the more travelled inland route.
5 things you need to know about walking the Larapinta Trail
1. Why should I go?
The Larapinta Trail takes the walker deep into the astonishingly beautiful red-heart of Australia. It weaves its way through spectacular gorges, climbs over rugged peaks, drops into green oases and follows the meanderings of ancient rivers.
The Tjoritja / West MacDonnell Ranges is one of the oldest places on earth and when you look out upon these red-purple rounded ranges you feel their ancient ancestry. The indigenous owners of this land, the Arrernte, have a history dating back at least 40,000 years, one of the longest continuing cultures on the planet. Many of the sites you pass on the trail are sacred to the Arrernte people, who graciously allow walkers access to their country.
The Larapinta Tail has good facilities, with water, toilets and picnic tables at many campsites, a number of large shelters and USB charging points at several camps. The waymarking is good. The trail is mostly easy to follow although at times you have to keep your eyes open.
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Larapinta Trail, Central Australia
The Larapinta Trail takes the walker deep into the astonishingly beautiful red-heart of Australia.
Following the spine of the Tjoritja / West MacDonnell Ranges, the Larapinta Trail traverses the land of the Arrernte people. Their songlines tell of ancestral beings who travelled this country, bringing its flora, fauna, waterholes and landforms into life. The trail extends for 225 kilometres, from Mt Sonder to the desert town of Alice Springs. It weaves its way through spectacular gorges, climbs over rugged peaks, drops into green oases and follows the meanderings of ancient rivers.
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Camino Francés, Spain
In the autumn of 2005, inspired by our friend Robert’s stories of walking the Camino Francés and in need of respite from the clamour of our lives, we walked out of St Jean Pied de Port on an 800-kilometre pilgrimage to the holy city of Santiago de Compostela.
A candle, lit in the cathedral in Santiago; a hand placed on the same marble column that pilgrims have placed their hand on for centuries; a relic, a piece of the true cross (plastic or otherwise); and that we travel well together. These were the entreaties from friends we carried with us as we walked across northern Spain. What follows are notes from our diary of 30 extraordinary days on the Camino Francés (literally, the Camino from France).
