Australia has a federal election, and we want our vote to count. So much so that we walk 200 kilometres, following the coast from Calais to the seaside village of Wissant before turning inland and continuing on through the rolling green countryside of northern France to Arras.
An officious French police chief, an unsung Ukrainian hero, a native of Dover shining a light into the gloom. It’s the people we meet that make this journey so fascinating.
After the lightness and brightness of the Kent countryside, Dover strikes us as dour and down at heel. Even its young people seem world-weary and bereft of joy. But then, over a glass of excellent English white wine, our waiter, a native of Dover, tells us of his boyhood roaming the chalk hills and exploring the tunnels under Dover Castle. The wildness of it, the depth of its history and the rhythm of a port town with people constantly on the move is what makes Dover sing for him.
At border control in Dover, an officious French police chief upends our plan to ride our hastily acquired BMX onto the ferry. He argues that two people on one bicycle, one pedalling and the other standing on the back foot pegs, is not only dangerous but absolutely forbidden. We plead our case but he threatens to arrest us if we don’t desist.
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The Via Francigena is an ancient road and pilgrimage route from the English cathedral city of Canterbury to Rome, Italy’s Eternal City. The 2,000-kilometre way was first documented by Sigeric the Serious, Archbishop of Canterbury. In 990 AD he travelled to Rome and back for his consecration using a network of Roman roads originally constructed to facilitate trade and conquest.
Just as Sigeric did, we start our journey at Canterbury Cathedral. In the hush of early evening, we stand with Canon Emma Pennington by the eternal candle that marks where Thomas Becket’s body once lay. She prays that on the hard days on the Via Francigena we find the perseverance and strength to continue and on the days that the sun shines and the birds sing we open our hearts to the world and know its beauty.
Frenchmans Cap. The name itself has an aura; its presence in the landscape is dazzling. When the light is on it, the famed white quartzite peak is visible to ships out at sea. Then there’s the walk that bears its name. Regarded by some as one of Tasmania’s most challenging multi-day walks, the return journey to the domed summit of Frenchmans Cap is 46 kilometres. A little daunted by its reputation but with several days’ grace and the forecast of fine weather, we decide to spread our COVID-clipped wings and fly south to walk this wild trail.
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December 2021
The Surf Coast Walk stretches from Fairhaven to Point Impossible on the northern fringe of Torquay. It’s a walk we’ve done before, but this time we’re starting in Lorne, 16 kilometres to the west of the waymarked trail. Our plan is to walk 55 kilometres over two days, taking in deep draughts of coastal wildness as an antidote to this pandemic-restricted year.
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Our first overseas journey, to Papua New Guinea, remains one of our most adventurous. While not the hardest physically, nowhere else have we ventured so far off the beaten track, days away from any means of communication with the outside world and deep into a realm so unknown to us.
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In our Hearts is Anna’s successful entry in the 2021 competition, 100 Caminos 100 Stories.
In 2020, in the middle of the pandemic, the Chilean Friends of the Camino established a 100-word story competition to keep the spirit of the Camino alive and to lift the spirits of walkers around the globe. Anna’s entry Josef and the Silver Way was highly commended.
The competition was so successful that the Friends decided to run it again. Anna’s In our Hearts was selected for publication from the more than 600 entries received.
In our hearts tells the story of an enduring friendship made on the Camino Mozarabe.
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It’s our first spring in 18 months and we can’t get enough of the Cinque Terre; its vividly coloured villages, sparkling beaches, warm Italian sun and hillsides splashed with red poppies, purple orchids and white narcissus.
Centuries ago, the steep hills of the Cinque Terre were terraced with dry-stone walls and planted with vines. The inhabitants of its five villages farmed the land, fished the seas and made wine. But poverty, war and the lure of the city led to the abandonment of many of the hillside plots. The stabilising stone walls fell into disrepair and devastating landslides became more common. In response, the Cinque Terre National Park was created to restore and protect the natural and cultural heritage of this achingly beautiful coastal area.
We plan to walk for four days; two days on the Cinque Terre’s high route (the Sentiero Rosso), one day on the coastal route, and one day further north, in the wilder Portofino Natural Park.
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A walking festival draws us to Achill Island on Ireland’s wild and beautiful west coast.
On the first night of the festival, we meet walkers from all over Ireland. Among them are Maree & Seamus O’Brien, Brid & Paula (named after the last Pope), the O’Reilly brothers and their nephew Jean-Paul (also named after a Pope) and Michelle, a fellow Camino aficionado. There’s also Anne & Ivan, an American couple keen like us to walk the land of their ancestors and know more of its stories.
Our leader is Tomás, an Irish-speaking archaeologist and mountaineer. Before we start climbing, he advises us to move gracefully up the slope, stop and let the wind pass and be mindful of our fellow walkers.
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Josef and the Silver Way was Anna’s entry in a competition run by the Chilean Friends of the Camino: 100 Caminos 100 Stories
In the middle of a pandemic, when no one could travel, these short stories of 100 words reminded us of shared adventures as well as the range of emotions and feelings experienced walking the Camino.
Over 700 entries were received from 43 countries and from these Josef and the Silver Way was selected for publication and awarded an Honorable Mention by the judges.
Josef and the Silver Way
We walk by torchlight with Josef until dawn breaks and the earth’s shadow fades to blue. He’s 76 years old and the most inspirational of the pilgrims we meet on the Via de la Plata. Over dinner, he tells us that when his beloved wife died he sought solace in walking. He found his rhythm in the forests of Germany and one day set out from his home to walk the ancient pilgrimage path to Santiago. Serene, gracious, wise, he shows us the person we want to be at his age. Still walking, still open to beauty at every turn.
You can read all the entries, in Spanish and English, in the online version 100 Caminos 100 Relatos.
A huge thanks to the Chilean Circle of Friends of Way of Santiago de Compostela for this inspiring competition: 100 Caminos 100 Relatos: Historias breves a Santiago. Check their website for updates and news of new competitions.
Our first Camino was, like most people, the Camino Frances. This is our account of walking 700 km to Santiago and how it changed our lives.
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