Via Francigena: Crossing from Dover to Calais

An officious French police chief, an unsung Ukrainian hero, a native of Dover shining a light into the gloom. It’s the people we meet that make this journey so fascinating. 

After the lightness and brightness of the Kent countryside, Dover strikes us as dour and down at heel. Even its young people seem world-weary and bereft of joy. But then, over a glass of excellent English white wine, our waiter, a native of Dover, tells us of his boyhood roaming the chalk hills and exploring the tunnels under Dover Castle. The wildness of it, the depth of its history and the rhythm of a port town with people constantly on the move is what makes Dover sing for him.

At border control in Dover, an officious French police chief upends our plan to ride our hastily acquired BMX onto the ferry. He argues that two people on one bicycle, one pedalling and the other standing on the back foot pegs, is not only dangerous but absolutely forbidden. We plead our case but he threatens to arrest us if we don’t desist.

We have no option but to turn back. We’re at a loss to know what to do until we spot a utility vehicle in the ferry queue that potentially has space for us and our BMX.

We ask the driver if we can hitch a ride. Of all the people in this long, slow queue for the ferry, we happen upon the man for his time. He is a Ukrainian, leading a convoy of vehicles delivering humanitarian aid to the Polish/Ukraine border (his third such mission). He has no qualms about assisting strangers in need and a few minutes later we cruise through border control. Slava Ukraini!

We ride our BMX triumphantly onto the ferry. As it pulls away from the port, a sea mist descends and foghorns sound out across the Channel.

In Calais, we donate the bicycle to a charity that supports refugees and, with relief, resume our journey to Rome on foot, pas apres pas.

See the next stage: Via Francigena: Liberté, Égalité, Fraternité

Go to the start of the journey: Via Francigena: the beginning