A henro (pilgrim) walks under an avenue of cherry blossom on the Shikoku pilgrimage

Shikoku Pilgrimage Stage 3, Japan

Ehime Prefecture_Attaining Enlightenment 

Prologue

The search for enlightenment is the focus of Ehime, the third stage of the Shikoku Pilgrimage. As we cross the Matsu Pass, we question if it’s possible to find deep peace and see the world with great clarity in these turbulent, unsettling times. We have two weeks and a 400-kilometre walk through Ehime to reflect on our uncertainties.

Kochi, the second stage, featured long distances between temples and arduous henro korogashi climbs (‘where pilgrims fall down’). Thanks to the meditative nature of the walking and the fascinating encounters en route, the austerity and discipline of Kochi were not as harsh as we feared. 

While we wish we could speak more than a few words of Japanese, our lack of familiarity with the country makes every day intriguing. We’ve visited 39 temples and walked 615 kilometres to date. On day 24, we cross into Ehime, following in the footsteps of Kōbō Daishi, the great monk, administrator, poet and educator who henros believe travels with them on their pilgrimage.

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A henro walking the Shikoku pilgrimage along the Kochi coastline on highway 55

Shikoku Pilgrimage Stage 2, Japan

Kochi Prefecture: Austerity & Discipline

Prologue

The second stage of the Shikoku Pilgrimage demands austerity and discipline. Crossing into Kochi prefecture, we wonder how the journey will test us and mark our lives. 

Tokushima, the first stage, represented the awakening of the spirit. We started our pilgrimage concerned that our scant knowledge of Japanese culture, language and traditions would find us wanting. However, the conversations with fellow henros (pilgrims), the ritual of temple visits and the kindness of local people shed light on the practices of Shingon Buddhism and the rich history of the 88 Temples walk

Over eight days and 188 kilometres of walking, we settled into our role as henros. While we wish we could speak more than a few words of Japanese, our lack of familiarity with Japan makes the journey intriguing as we search for meaning in everyday encounters.

On day nine we cross into Kochi, following in the footsteps of Kōbō Daishi, the great monk, administrator, poet and educator who henros believe travels with them on their 1,200-kilometre Shikoku Pilgrimage.

A maneki-neko, lucky cat, at  Zenrakuji Temp,e 30
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