Dunkeld campsite on the Great Ocean Road ride

Great Victorian Bike Ride: Grampians to Geelong

Prelude

A litany of creeks and rivers; the Merri, Mullum Mullum, the Maribyrnong, Kororoit, Dandenong, Moonee Ponds, the Yarra. All trails we ride with the impending Great Victorian Bike Ride in mind. Trees scarred with ceremony, the burnished gold cupolas of orthodox churches, a kangaroo by the western ring road unconcerned by the roar of trucks and tradies utes, artichokes and fennel growing wild, the last of spring’s wattles bright yellow with blossom. We train on the road as well, out in the hills beyond the city where tall trees grow and parrots flash past, a blur of neon green and red and blue.

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Mont Blanc massif in stormy light

Tour du Mont Blanc, France

Late Summer

The Tour du Mont Blanc is an epic 170-kilometre walk around the Mont Blanc massif, a dazzling landscape of snow-capped peaks, ice scarred mountains and tumbling glaciers. Its high, steep mountain passes are legendary and its wildness alluring. A walking journey through three different countries and cultures beckons (France, Italy and Switzerland). And the highest mountain in Europe, a fabled dome of snow and ice, will be our guiding star.

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Wild Raspberries

Sweden in the Green Season

Sweden in the Green Season: Three Walks and a Beach

Just beyond the muted ochres and calm sophistication of Stockholm is a wilder world. Summer is the green season and it is greener the deeper into the woods you wander. You can catch a train to the last metro stop on the line going south or north and find yourself on a long-distance walking trail. Here is our story of walking the first section of three of these trails.
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Latvia: Rīga and Beyond

Late one warm Saturday afternoon finds us on the sundeck of the Rīga ferry as it navigates its way through the beautiful labyrinth that is the Stockholm archipelago.

We pass so close to some islands that we can exchange greetings with the summer house dwellers sunning themselves on the rocks. Islands upon islands, pine forests, red and yellow-painted summer houses, sailing boats, skerries. Then out into the Baltic Sea, calm enough on the night of our crossing to sleep without memory.
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White chalk cliffs, the blue sea and vivid-green grass

The South Downs Way, England

Midsummer, 2016

The South Downs Way follows ancient tracks along the escarpment and ridges of the South Downs, a line of chalk hills stretching across Hampshire and Sussex to the white cliffs of the Seven Sisters. Green, smooth-swelling, unending, the Downs provided inspiration for the Bloomsbury group and continue to exhilarate artists, writers, travellers and walkers today. 

The concourse of London Victoria station a frenzy of movement. Financiers striding anxiously to work as the Pound Sterling plummets in the wake of Britain’s vote to leave the European Union. Dazed festival-goers returning from Glastonbury leaving a trail of mud and ennui in their wake. And those like us, keen to be away from the city, jostling against the incoming human tide to board the train. On the southbound journey, we sit opposite a sardonic, linen-suited Guardian reader, eruditely discussing the Brexit referendum with his travelling companion. Read More

The Blade, Three Capes Track

Three Capes Track, Tasmania

The Three Capes Track promises to be ‘no ordinary walk’. A boat trip, three capes and four days exploring the wild coastal landscapes of the Tasman Peninsula. Meandering through fragrant heathlands, woodlands and lush green rainforests, climbing peaks, edging our way along some of the highest sea cliffs in Australia and being drawn to the swirling cobalt blue sea below. Read More

Anna & Michael looking west over the Indian Ocean, Coast to Coast Track

Cape to Cape Track, Western Australia

The Cape to Cape Track follows the sublime coastline of Leeuwin-Naturaliste National Park for 140 kilometres. We intend to start the walk at Cape Leeuwin, Australia’s most southwesterly lighthouse, and head north, past a glittering string of beaches, occasionally meandering inland through secluded woodlands and magnificent karri forest to end our journey at Cape Naturaliste lighthouse.

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