The air is watery, the vegetation lush. A waning moon hangs in the pale sky. The chirping of geckos echoes in our ears. Although the sun is not yet up, the harbour pulsates with neon-lit sea kayaks, dragon boats, and early morning ferries.
We cross the water to Milsons Point, the start and end of our circular Seven Bridges walk. It’s a 28-kilometre route, although inevitable off-trail explorations will add a few more kilometres to our day.
The Kumano Kodo entices us to journey into a land of sacred mountains and venerated shrines. Kumano, the ancient name for the southern regions of Japan’s Kii Peninsula, is steeped in mystery and legend. The Kodo are the ‘old ways’ pilgrims have used for centuries. Following their footsteps, we’ll wind through the lush mountains to visit the three Grand Shrines of Kumano: Hongu, Nachi, and Hayatama.
We’re drawn to these Sacred Sites and Pilgrimage Routes, which gained UNESCO World Heritage status in 2004. The UNESCO listing recognises the fusion of Shinto and Buddhist religions, the integrity of the pilgrimage routes, and the ancient and ongoing tradition of nature worship.
Like most modern-day pilgrims, we plan to walk the Nakahechi Route used by emperors and nobles from the 10th century onwards. Known as the ‘Imperial Route,’ it starts on the western coast of the Kii Peninsula and trails high into the mountains, the abode of the gods, before descending to the east coast.
Kagawa symbolises the realm of Nirvana, but two days into this fourth and final stage of our Shikoku Pilgrimage, the winds brought grave news of our brother-in-law’s health. As the cherry blossoms faded, we paused our pilgrimage and returned home.
Three weeks later, our ‘loud and vibrant’ brother-in-law Ray died, leaving a sea of sorrow in his wake. We stayed close to home through the Australian winter and into spring. Then as Melbourne’s days were lengthening, we returned to Japan in early November. The weather was cooling and the nights descended early.
We took up where we left off, at Dōryūji (Temple 77), hoping to regain the spirit of the pilgrimage and, if not reach nirvana, at least complete our walking journey around Shikoku.
Ehime, the third stage of the Shikoku Pilgrimage, is focused on the search for enlightenment. As we cross the Matsu Pass, we question whether it’s possible to be struck by deep peace and great clarity in these turbulent, unsettling times. We have two weeks and a 400-kilometre walk through Ehime to reflect on our uncertainty.
Kochi, the second stage, featured long distances between temples and arduous henro korogashi climbs (‘where pilgrims fall down’). Thanks to the meditative nature of the walking and the fascinating encounters en route, the austerity and discipline of Kochi were not as harsh as we feared.
While we wish we could speak more than a few words of Japanese, our lack of familiarity with the country makes every day intriguing. To date, we’ve visited 39 temples and walked 615 kilometres. On day 24, we cross into Ehime, following in the footsteps of Kōbō Daishi, the great monk, administrator, poet, and educator who henros believe travels with them on their pilgrimage.
The second stage of the Shikoku Pilgrimage demands austerity and discipline. Crossing into Kochi prefecture, we wonder how the journey will test us and mark our lives.
Tokushima, the first stage, represented the awakening of the spirit. We started our pilgrimage concerned that our scant knowledge of Japanese culture, language and traditions would find us wanting. However, the conversations with fellow henros (pilgrims), the ritual of temple visits and the kindness of local people shed light on the practices of Shingon Buddhism and the rich history of the 88 Temples walk.
Over eight days and 188 kilometres of walking, we settled into our role as henros. While we wish we could speak more than a few words of Japanese, our lack of familiarity with Japan makes the journey intriguing as we search for meaning in everyday encounters.
On day nine we cross into Kochi, following in the footsteps of Kōbō Daishi, the great monk, administrator, poet and educator who henros believe travels with them on their 1,200-kilometre Shikoku Pilgrimage.
Our Shikoku Pilgrimage begins less than auspiciously. We asked the author of our guidebook if he knew of any reliable GPS tracks. His response is stern. A pilgrimage is not a hike but a path of ascetic training. There is such a thing as too much of a good thing; digital devices are unsuitable for the Shikoku pilgrimage. Getting lost is part of the journey.
Chastened, we temper our planning for the pilgrimage but remain committed to following the footsteps of Kōbō Daishi to the 88 sacred Buddhist temples scattered around the island of Shikoku.
A last wander along the shoreline before we turn inland to walk across the mountains and plains of Sicily on the Magna Via Francigena. Fishermen mending their nets. A large-scale mural; a memorial to the magistrates Falcone and Borsellino, both assassinated by the Mafia. It is bold in its presence and tender in its rendering.
One fine spring morning, we stepped out to walk the Via Francigena Sud. It’s a 950-kilometre route following the ancient Appian Way from Rome to Santa Maria di Leuca. Emperors, poets and popes have gone before us, as have pilgrims and crusaders bound for the Holy Land.
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Late one summer, we set out to walk the Via degli Dei, an ancient pathway travelled since the time of the Etruscans. The 130-kilometre-long path crosses the beautiful Apennines, linking Bologna with Florence. It threads through forests, across mountain ridges and in and out of old Italian villages.
Pagan divinities give names to the mountains that the route crosses; Adonis, Jupiter, Venus and Lua, the goddess of atonement. They also give the route its name; the Path of Gods.
Our Thames Path walk takes us from the source of the river in the rolling Cotswold Hills, through historic cities, quaint villages and beguiling English countryside before passing through the heart of London and finishing at the Thames flood barrier. It’s a meandering journey of 185 miles (300 kilometres).
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