Category: All Articles

Latvia: Rīga and Beyond

Our Wanderlust 9 Comments

Late one warm Saturday afternoon finds us on the sundeck of the Rīga ferry as it navigates its way through the beautiful labyrinth that is the Stockholm archipelago.

We pass so close to some islands that we can exchange greetings with the summer house dwellers sunning themselves on the rocks. Islands upon islands, pine forests, red and yellow-painted summer houses, sailing boats, skerries. Then out into the Baltic Sea, calm enough on the night of our crossing to sleep without memory.
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White chalk cliffs, the blue sea and vivid-green grass

The South Downs Way, England

Our Wanderlust 6 Comments

Midsummer, 2016

The South Downs Way follows ancient tracks along the escarpment and ridges of the South Downs, a line of chalk hills stretching across Hampshire and Sussex to the white cliffs of the Seven Sisters. Green, smooth-swelling, unending, the Downs provided inspiration for the Bloomsbury group and continue to exhilarate artists, writers, travellers and walkers today. 

The concourse of London Victoria station a frenzy of movement. Financiers striding anxiously to work as the Pound Sterling plummets in the wake of Britain’s vote to leave the European Union. Dazed festival-goers returning from Glastonbury leaving a trail of mud and ennui in their wake. And those like us, keen to be away from the city, jostling against the incoming human tide to board the train. On the southbound journey, we sit opposite a sardonic, linen-suited Guardian reader, eruditely discussing the Brexit referendum with his travelling companion. Read More

The Blade, Three Capes Track

Three Capes Track, Tasmania

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The Three Capes Track promises to be ‘no ordinary walk’. A boat trip, three capes and four days exploring the wild coastal landscapes of the Tasman Peninsula. Meandering through fragrant heathlands, woodlands and lush green rainforests, climbing peaks, edging our way along some of the highest sea cliffs in Australia and being drawn to the swirling cobalt blue sea below. Read More

Anna & Michael looking west over the Indian Ocean, Coast to Coast Track

Cape to Cape Track, Western Australia

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The Cape to Cape Track follows the sublime coastline of Leeuwin-Naturaliste National Park for 140 kilometres. We intend to start the walk at Cape Leeuwin, Australia’s most southwesterly lighthouse, and head north, past a glittering string of beaches, occasionally meandering inland through secluded woodlands and magnificent karri forest to end our journey at Cape Naturaliste lighthouse.

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Two cyclists struggle up a steep, rocky track

The Munda Biddi Trail, Western Australia

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The Munda Biddi Trail is a 1,100-kilometre mountain bike ride from the coast at Albany to Mundaring, high in the hills outside of Perth. It’s off-road in the main, promising adventure and strange beauty. We set off from Melbourne one fine morning, excited about the road trip across the Nullarbor and the ride into unknown territory.
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Silhouette of walkers on the Camino Portugues

Camino Portugues

Our Wanderlust 2 Comments

September 2014

Sign with yellow arrow and text 'Here Begins The Way'
On a warm hazy afternoon, we met our French friends, Jean and Marie-José, on the steps of the Lisbon Cathedral, procured our pilgrim credentials and set out to walk the Camino Portugues.
This is our third Camino. In 2005 we walked the 750 km Camino Françes from St Jean Pied du Port on the French side of the Pyrenees, across northern Spain to Santiago de Compostela. Three years later we walked the Via de la Plata, a 1,000 km journey from Seville in the south of Spain to Santiago de Compostela. It was on this walk that we met and fell in with Jean and Marie-José, our affection for each other and ‘the way’ triumphing over our very limited grasp of French. We last saw them in 2010 when we spent a few idyllic days in their village of Saint-Thomè in the wild and beautiful Ardèche. Now we are together again, to walk the 650 km Camino Portugues from Lisbon, through Portugal and into northern Spain, hugging the coastline where we can and avoiding the more travelled inland route.

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Cycling on the Loire à Vélo

Loire à Vélo: Saint Nazaire to Nevers, France

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Reflecting on the Loire à Vélo

Late one night in the winter of 2014 we left work, forever.

Two days later we flew to France to cycle the Loire à Vélo, our liberation ride. A 1,000 kilomètre journey from Saint Nazaire on Brittany’s Atlantic coast to Nevers in Burgundy, following the Loire, one of the last untamed rivers of Europe

A 65-kilometre warm-up ride along the coast. Past lighthouses, fishing huts built on stilts high above the water and a procession of French families carrying fishing nets, brightly coloured beach balls and striped towels. We stopped at Saint Marc sur Mer to pay homage to Monsieur Hulot and then cycled on through the salt marshes to the medieval walled village of Guerande.

Riding back in the warm twilight, our spirits soared as we cut through fields and forest trails. Our more-experienced cycling companions, Patricia and Paul, declared us Loire à Vélo ready and early the next morning we set off towards infinity and into a beautiful green valley listed as a world heritage living cultural landscape.

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A panoramic view looking over the desert

5 things you need to know about walking the Larapinta Trail

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1. Why should I go?

The Larapinta Trail takes the walker deep into the astonishingly beautiful red-heart of Australia. It weaves its way through spectacular gorges, climbs over rugged peaks, drops into green oases and follows the meanderings of ancient rivers. 

The Tjoritja / West MacDonnell Ranges is one of the oldest places on earth and when you look out upon these red-purple rounded ranges you feel their ancient ancestry. The indigenous owners of this land, the Arrernte, have a history dating back at least 40,000 years, one of the longest continuing cultures on the planet. Many of the sites you pass on the trail are sacred to the Arrernte people, who graciously allow walkers access to their country.

The Larapinta Tail has good facilities, with water, toilets and picnic tables at many campsites, a number of large shelters and USB charging points at several camps. The waymarking is good. The trail is mostly easy to follow although at times you have to keep your eyes open.

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Mt Sonder lit by the red light of dawn

Larapinta Trail, Central Australia

Our Wanderlust 4 Comments

The Larapinta Trail takes the walker deep into the astonishingly beautiful red-heart of Australia.

Following the spine of the Tjoritja / West MacDonnell Ranges, the Larapinta Trail traverses the land of the Arrernte people. Their songlines tell of ancestral beings who travelled this country, bringing its flora, fauna, waterholes and landforms into life. The trail extends for 225 kilometres, from Mt Sonder to the desert town of Alice Springs. It weaves its way through spectacular gorges, climbs over rugged peaks, drops into green oases and follows the meanderings of ancient rivers. 

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